vintage love....double-sided napkin tutorial

I LOVE my Jadeite......and any excuse to use it! When I was asked to set a table at a Valentines banquet I knew I needed to figure out a way to pull in the lovely vintage color.  So off to my favorite fabric store to find some vintage looking fabric that had mint and red as the primary colors, I was hoping for a variety of 4 fabrics so I could make 2 of each.  Well... they didn't let me down,  I found this great set of fabrics. SCRUMTIOUS by Moda fabrics. grabbed some red rick-rack and red Kona cotton. Let me take a moment to brag about quality fabrics.  I come across people everyday that choke when they ask me about what fabrics I like and how much they are per yard....but no matter what others may think quality fabric is an absolute must!  ONLY IF you want your projects to turn out professional looking, if you want to enjoy your sewing process, if you want a product that will last the test of time.... I could go on!
I have wasted too many hours and projects on cheap fabric.  I also only use cloth napkins and have purchased as well as made them and there is nothing worse than a bad napkin.  I have already washed this set 3 times and they have come out beautiful with minimal ironing...which is appreciated, and while we are talking about cloth napkins I thought I would share my latest napkin organizing find.....over the door shoe organizer is perfect for storing your cloth napkins, you can see what you have, access them easily without digging through a pile and they are out of the way to free up space for other dining accessories. I spent around $40 on supplies and if you compare to customized napkins at a boutique they usually run $24+ for a set of 2.  So I think I did pretty good for a set of 8 costing $8. each.

So here's what you need for 8 double-sided napkins:
You need 1/2 yard print for 2 napkins or 2 yards for 8
2 yards solid fabric
14 yards rickrack...yes 14 :)
matching thread

Square up your fabric and cut 2- 18x18 squares from each print

then fold in quarters to round the edges

I like to use a saucer (here you can see how the fabric matches the jadeite perfect, but the camera doesn't show its true color)

trim up all pieces (16)

now we are ready to add the rick-rack
I like to add it to my front piece first - line up the zig zag with the edge of the right side, stitch on and then stitch the backing fabric right sides together.  Run both ends of the rick-rack off the edge so the ends get caught in the seam when finished.

after you piece front to the back, turn your piece and press all around and opening so it is ready for top stitching

once all your napkins are turned, and pressed run a top stitch all around as close to the edge as you like, this is decorative, and functional as it will keep the pieces together after washing and it will close your gap where you turned your piece.

and voila! your set of beautiful custom napkins is complete! 

picnic quilt tote

Ok BMQG Ladies this is for you, I will be demonstrating this at the November meeting, I will be referring you back to my blog for picture details if you are a visual learner.  I have now made 4 of these quilt totes starting with this lovely quilt commissioned by an etsian, those 2 quilts blogged both have gussets, this sounds complicated but it just a matter of adding 2-4" strip of fabric to your zipper before you apply it to the quilt.  This is necessary if your quilt is fluffy or large, which both of those were.  The plus quilts I am demonstrating are only 67" square and fairly thin so they fit with just the zipper.  Speaking of zippers.........you must use a zipper that is heavy duty and sturdy for it will be getting some wear and tug, you want to shop for one that is also wide because the wider the zipper edge the more space for your folded up quilt and a much easier zip when folding up.  The purchasing of the zipper will be your most challenging part of this project!  If you are lucky enough to happen upon a "sleeping bag " zipper at the fabric store grab it, they are 100" long, which is too big but the are wide and sturdy, otherwise you need to head over to the upholstery section and buy a zipper by the yard or an upholstery cushion zip.   You will probably need somewhere around 48" It is a good idea to finish your quilt and fold it and measure before you buy your zipper...unless you strike gold with the sleeping bag one.  

7 Easy Steps and 21 Pictures to your Quilt Tote!  

1. Your quilt: If making a new quilt you may bind three sides if you wish and leave the binding free for the side with the zipper or wait until the last step to bind.  If you are using an existing quilt, on one side pull out the stitching and free the binding from the quilt as below
   

2. How to measure for the zipper: Lay quilt out and depending on size you will fold in half or thirds (A.) Then bring the ends to the middle (B.) At this point you will measure from your fold in the middle around the outside edge, down the fold and back to the middle edge.  That is the length of your zip, when you open up the zipper to apply it will then go around all 4 sides. Another way to think about measuring the zip is to measure the circumference of the folded quilt and divide by 2.

(A.)

(B.)

3. Prepare straps: Flip the folded quilt over and you will have your working surface for applying the handle(s) and zip.  You will have to determine the length of your own strap to your preferences and if you would like 1 or 2, or if you want to get fancy with an adjustable strap (if you cut them off of duffel bags before you toss them like I do then you can cheat a bit) or embellish any ribbing, jute webbing, nylon strapping, make your own with fabric and a stabilizer....get creative.

If using one strap, take measurements of the top of the tote (along the binding) find the middle and then center for one side and evenly space the straps, do the same for the second strap.  Stitch them on by going over stitching multiple times, making sure the ends don't fray you may zigzag too. You may then bind your quilt, keeping in mind you need an open place for zipper ends but I would rather rip out an inch of stitching later to keep the flow nice and smooth. Then refold the quilt to have (C) facing up to continue.

(C.)

(D.)

4. Prepare Zipper: Lay zipper out on folded quilt (D.) leaving a few inches hanging off the end, measure around 3 sides and add 2" for safety. Cut zipper at top (make sure the pull is below cut) 

Cut a piece of fabric 2 1/2" X 2x the width of zipper plus seam allowance

i.e. my zipper is 1 1/4 wide so I will cut fabric 2.5 X 3"

you will then fold right sides over the end of your measured zipper (E.), stitch along the bottom edge encasing the zipper, be aware of the zip part and use the wheel to lower your needle one stitch at a time so you don't break a needle, then run a stitch as close to the zip side without catching the zipper. Pull stitched fabric right side out (F) trim if too long and fold raw edges in and top stitch (G)

(E.)

(F.)

(G.)

(H)

5. Attaching Zipper: (H) Open zipper up and lay right side down, this part is too tricky to explain so I will refer you to the pictures. (I) starting in the center of your folded quilt start pinning the zip with the teeth facing inward. (J) run the zip over your straps along the edge of the binding. Being careful at the corners to round them out and pin well but do not lip corners,( it will seem tight for now but will be perfect later)

(K) Pull the stitching now from your binding and insert the top ends of the zipper, I pin one side at a time and then make sure its all even then insert the tips into the binding (K) (L,M) is the pinned zip ready to stitch.

(I)

(J)

(K)

(L)

(M)

6. Stitch the Zip: Open the quilt flat and attach your walking foot, insert the quilt and align the needle to the outer edge of the zipper and position the teeth on the left outer side of your foot,(N) slowly stitch. When you have stitched the zipper all the way around, replace the top stitching over your zip ends. (P)

(N)

(O)

(P)

7. How to fold and zip:

Depending upon your quilt size if you folded in thirds or in half twice its still the same basic fold, (Q)Lay flat with handles at top, fold up (R,S) and fold into the center (T) then zip (U)

(Q)

(R)

(S)

(T)

(U)

tuttie tute: bike basket linner/tote bag

Bike basket liner and tote! Ok I know I went on and on about my old Schwinn bike and the cover was cute and easy but a cute seat cover can only do so much for a sad little bike.  It looked good but rode bad :( I need to be able to go for long rides with my kids and pull a few kids behind me from time to time.   I needed a new bike.  So With my new bike I needed a cute basket liner.  After some etsy surfing on what people are making I got a general idea of what my needs were and what I wanted to create.  My basket is the quick release by wald.  The quick release mechanism prevents the liner from going around the top in a continuous piece so I had to adapt the top, more about that later.  Here is the list of likes and wants for my bag.

zipper pocket

key fob

water bottle holder

ability to take out and carry

pocket for phone and glasses

AND to be CUTE!

Ok so I started,  here is what I did.  Spread out all my fabric scraps to decide my fabric combination, I wanted the bag to compliment my bike colors and I found I had enough of these wonderful Amy Butler prints. Gathered some other supplies like yellow webbing for the straps, a zipper for pocket and a clasp from an old duffel bag.  So I got to work.  First by measuring the basket and drawing a rough picture with dimensions to go from.  If you have not discovered pattern paper, you need to if you like to make your own patterns...its a must.  The pattern paper has marks in inch squares so it helps you keep things straight and it has a wax paper backing that you can iron onto your fabric to help cut it out. 

So I created my pattern.

The top was 2" larger than the bottom so I created by patterns

Here is a picture of the pattern paper ironed onto the fabric.  This is also helpful if you want to line up your patterns and center the fabric.  This takes time and uses more fabric sometimes but it makes the difference between homemade and boutique, if you ask me.

Here are my lining pieces ready to add inside details of your choice.

I made a simple pocket on the top peice, placed elastic on the left for a drink, key fob on the right and a zipper pocket.  I have been wanting to learn how to insert a zipper pocket so this was the perfect project to test it out.  Found this tutorial and its perfect. I made my pocket 8x8.

My pocket is not perfect and a little puckery on the corner but a good first try and good enough for the lining of this project.

I assembled the lining sewing the side seams first, being careful to sew only  a 1/2 from the bottom in each side seam.  Cut my bottom piece and then attached the bottom.  There are many tutorials out there about basic tote bag construction if this is your first time.  I will skip alot of the basic construction steps and only tell about the different things I did to customize the bag for a basket.

I then added the straps.

This picture is an example of where I put a dot on the bottom for where to stop sewing to get your bottom to come out square.

Now repeat for the outer minus the pockets and extras.

I like to press my seams out and them top stitch on both sides of the seam, this adds strength and structure to the bag as wall as a nice decorative touch.

I made my casing in two pieces to the handle is able to go up and sown and not interfere with the bag.

Sew the casing to the outer and turn the outer bag inside out and insert in the lining, right sides together.  Stitch around the top, I prefer to rip open a piece of my lining rather than have the top opening left.  So then rip a lining side seam and turn bag right side out. 

I inserted a piece of template plastic for my bottom to have a bit of sturdiness in the side seam opening and then stitched shut.  Iron seams and top stitch again under the casing.

Thread you tie through the casing

cant wait to test it out!



tuttie tute: easy bike seat cover tutorial

I am a lover of all vintage things, but if they have a family history I love them even more. I have had my Nana's old Schwinn Suburban Bike from the 60's for about 17 years, I started riding it when I was pregnant with my first born because it sat up straight and my mt. bike was no longer comfy for my growing belly.  Well it has gone in and out of storage and I rode it here and there.  I now love this bike even more since my Nana recently shared with me how it was the first bike she ever bought with her very first paycheck as a working mom, well now I have to restore it! So I dusted it off, polished the rims and handle bars rubbed all the rust off with WD40 and sent the wheels in for an overhaul.  I was searching for vintage parts and came across some cute bike seats, then I saw bike seat covers in fun decorative prints, well ......need I say more? 

Here is my tute for making an easy bike seat:

1- choose fabric
    I am using Joel Dewberry Ginseng dec weight fabric because my bike is sparkly brown and this matches perfect.  Some people out there in blog land were using oilcloth, which is a great idea and waterproof, but it hardly rains where I live and I didn't think it necessary for me.

2- trace bike seat onto tissue paper with sharpie

                                      

3- add 5/8" freehand around your outline then fold in half to get a symmetrical pattern and cut out

4-cut out fabric and fusible fleece for added padding

5-I also decided to quilt a 2" diamond pattern at this point this is optional but adds a nice touch, plus I just love my walking foot and enjoy little details

6- take a measurement around the outer edge of seat top, and decide how wide you need the sides to be, because this is an old bike seat and not very pretty I wanted my sides to cover the springs on the back and go around the entire seat so I made my sides 5" wide, this also allowed for my seam and for custom trimming later.  Then I clipped the edges for easy curves.

7-Attach side piece stretching and curving around the seat top, I decided to stitch in the same manner that I do binding, starting about 1-2" from the beginning,  this is the binding tute that changed my binding life :) Follow this and it will open up a whole new world of binding.  I know this sounds crazy but really binding is amazing! hehehe, its the simple things that make me sooo happy.

ok back to the project

8- sides are attached and now its time to check the fit

yeah! it fits!!!!! I was totally winging it so I did not know what it would look like.

9- trim around the edges that are too long, my seat has a narrow front but needed more coverage around the back for the springs, so eyeball this step and cut half of the side then fold in half to get the other side so they match up

10- finishing it off: 2 ways this can be done.  Create a casing and add a drawstring (which I think might have been a better choice ) but I'm lazy and had tons of FOE on hand to I used it!

FOE (fold over elastic) in case you don't know is a wonderful elastic product that has many uses, skirt waistbands, ironing board covers, to name a few of the uses I have experience with but it was originally purchased by a friend who had an ambitious diaper cover project in mind and bought like a million yards of it, so I ended up with some.  Which I love.  So you place half on the back and fabric in the middle pull and sew at the same time, I do not use pins for this, though some may want to.  I also use an elastic stitch on my machine that runs a straight stitch in a zigzag pattern

I wanted the fit to be a little more snug so I decided to add a elastic strap in addition, this is why I thought the drawstring might actually work better.

this worked out too though

now I cant wait to see it on my bike and try it out. Waiting on the tires...thanks to my hubby who installed them and adjusted my brakes to make sure everything was put back properly after I disassembled it :-)

my next bike accessory project will be a basket liner.......so excited!!!